Kürtősh comes to Surry Hills
Being the daughter of a pastry chef, I like to think I know a thing or two when it comes cake, and cake related-outings. Recently, I’ve developed a teensy obsession with a bakery-cafe hybrid called Kürtősh. The concept behind Kürtősh is equal parts cool and kooky. An Australian first idea coined by three brothers, this place specializes in a traditional Hungarian dessert called kurtoskulacs (hence the name). With the bakers on display you’ll be fascinated as you get to watch how these things are made. While the kurtoskulacs looks and smell pretty damn good if we’re being honest, it’s not what I’m here for. No, I come for the slab cakes. Yes, you heard correctly; slab cakes… but wait, I’ll get to these in a moment.
Now, if you’re wondering why on earth you haven’t heard of Kürtősh before, don’t beat yourself up. The original Kürtősh cafe is nestled away in a side street around the corner from ‘The Spot’ in Randwick. Virtually hidden from anyone who doesn’t venture to the Eastern ‘burbs, Kürtősh has done a really good job of being Randwick’s best kept secret.
Until now, that is.
Early last week, as I was moseying along Crown Street in Surry Hills, I stumbled across the shell of an old shopfront which was clearly undergoing some kind of reno. I took a peak inside, recognizing the familiar interior stylings of my new favourite cake shop. As I sticky-beaked some more, I noticed the Kürtősh signs ready to be hoisted to the ceiling. After a bit of Googling, my speculations were confirmed, Kürtősh # 2 was opening in Surry Hills.
Naturally, I made plans to return and indugle as soon as the doors were officially opened. Luckily for me, the wait was no more than a few days, and I was inside enjoying all things cake by Sunday. Upon entering, I directed myself right towards the shiny glass cabinets which have encased within them slabs of cake. Basically, each dessert is made in giant squares and customers can choose exactly how big (or little) they want their slices to be.
Best. Idea. Ever.
If you’re anything like me, the decision to choose just one cake is far too overwhelming. This way, you can try a bit of everything. And as the slices are sold by weight ($4/100g) it works out to be so much cheaper than a giant slab of factory made mudcake at your usual coffee shop- not to mention a lot more fun! I chose a piece of the lemon cheesecake, cookie cheesecake and a piece of the chocolate mousse cake. Thankfully, I knew how it all worked from my frequent visits to the Randwick store. I could tell it was a lot harder for the inner city newcomers, as the staff weren’t so great at explaining the quirky concept.
Like it’s sister store, the Crown Street Kürtősh has a homely vibe. The timber floorboards, paisley printed tiles and odd, brightly coloured teacups and plates make it feel like you’re enjoying afternoon tea at your granny’s place. I also couldn’t help but notice that both stores have the best taste in music playlists. And that’s pretty much it’s only downfall as I was practically inept at maintaining conversations, too busy Shazaming every single song that echoed through my second new favourite cake shop.
Where: 604 Crown Street, Surry Hills
Words and images by one of Miss Feather’s friendly crew: Madolyn Garnham